[illiac4]

average_male this mode looks really cool. Something like flirc and cir in one device.
Could you please open a thread by its own so that it gets a dedicated thread?
There are some alternatives of cheepp teensy boards like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leonardo-Pro-Mic...25871572b3 they are based on ATmega32U4 same as teensy.

Would it be possible to use those for the same solution?
Would it also work in Linux?
What ir receiver are you using?
Also some more detailed instructions would be very nice.

TNX in advance

[average_male]

average_male this mode looks really cool. Something like flirc and cir in one device.
Could you please open a thread by its own so that it gets a dedicated thread?
There are some alternatives of cheepp teensy boards like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leonardo-Pro-Mic...25871572b3 they are based on ATmega32U4 same as teensy.

Would it be possible to use those for the same solution?
Would it also work in Linux?
What ir receiver are you using?
Also some more detailed instructions would be very nice.

TNX in advance

Sorry for the very late reply.

> Would it be possible to use those for the same solution?
Yes, this would be a great cheap solution but two things are a bummer about it, 1) doesn't ship to US 2) I would need to change my firmware and programming method for the device. I actually looked at that device but the seller who ships to US offers the device at about $10 USD and I thought it wouldn't be worth the trouble to alter my setup to use it.

>Would it also work in Linux?
Yes, as the Teensy is working just like a generic USB keyboard and Linux would just enumerate it as a USB Keyboard

>What ir receiver are you using?
TSOP2438 - Generic 38 Khz receiver

>Also some more detailed instructions would be very nice.
Most of the instructions would be just performing the following:
- flash the Teensy with the firmware (not public at this time)
- wire it up as noted in the annotated pictures (schematic would be nice, I know)

To answer your other question about D- and D+, those are the USB data lines used to send keyboard strokes from the Teensy to the NUC.

I'd like to start a new thread but I think it's just a rehash of this thread plus the previously noted advantages. Also, the new NUCs have IR receivers built in.
I am currently working on implementing this Teensy solution for my OUYA. Should have something done shortly....

Just finished my OUYA IR sensor mod. It now powers on/off with my TV's power on/off IR code so pressing the power button on my TV's remote turns the OUYA on or off in sync with my TV. Here is a picture of the final product:

External Link to Image: OUYA IR

Seems XBMC.org and MS OneDrive (SkyDrive) don't play nicely together, thus the URL: https://lv2z3a.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p...jpg?psid=1

For some strange reason (because it is over SSL?) it doesn't want to link to the image. You can try this also: http://ouyaforum.com/showthread.php?956-...OUYA/page4

[Bl4ckH4wk]

Does someone still have a spare Case? I messed up mine, drilled the holes in the wrong height.
If someone has a spare case, please contact me via PM

[Laci]

Hello!

I'm considering to buy a nuc with built-in IR sensor, any experience with that? Is a standard win IR remote supposed to work with that?

many thanks in advance.

Laci

[Gorby77]

Hi,
Just did a Simerec mod on my Brix GB-XM11-3337 that i wanted to share.
You need to solder on the board and add a 5 volt regulator.










Cheers

[jsetzer]

Great info in this thread and awesome solutions. I wanted to do the exact same thing but didn't want to cut up the case. My solution was to cut/carve a sheet of Plexiglas to replace the factory bottom/cover and use that to receive IR and also to add power and HD activity LEDs. I started with an old RC6 receiver I had laying around. shown here after cracking open the original ugly red plastic case.

I desoldered the existing external USB cable and replaced it with a 4 pin cable for the internal USB header. While I was at it, I swapped out the red LED (just blinks when receiving IR signal) with a blue one on a short wire so it will match the SS HDD and Power LEDs I'm adding.

Next I wired up two more LEDs (also blue) to plug into the front panel connector.

I rough cut a scrap of plexiglas I had laying around and drilled holes for the IR receiver and the 3 LEDs.

Next I dry-fit it all to see if it would all work together.

The power LED is a little too bright as is. I'm going to move it closer to the center of the plate so that it creates a more even blue band. The HDD and IR LEDs just create a nice flicker when they illuminate. I will also add some ventilation holes in the bottom to match the ones in the original cover.

I was originally going to polish the edge, but I really like the soft blue glow that the 'frosted' edge gives off. At first I was afraid the IR signal wouldn't work because of multipath problems, but it works fine. Maybe because I'm controlling it with a Logitech Harmony that has the IR hub which is just a few inches from the NUC.