[Mastakilla]

Some more detailed testing with the Fluke Thermometer from my neighbour:

CPU undervolted to 1v

idle
CPU 38°C
Case 32,7°C

Prime95 Load (after 10 min)
CPU 74°C
Case 39,9°C (clearly rising)

Prime95 Load (after 22 min)
CPU 80°C
Case 43,5°C

Prime95 Load (after 38 min)
CPU 80°C
Case 45°C

Prime95 Load (after 51 min)
CPU 83°C
Case 46°C

adding furmark to make things interesting

Prime95 + Furmark Load (after 6 min / 58 min total)
CPU 92°C (12k FFT in Prime95)
Case 50,5°C

Prime95 + Furmark Load (after 16 min / 1h08 min total)
CPU 85°C (less stressful FFT in Prime95)
Case 51,6°C

Prime95 + Furmark Load (after 31 min / 1h23 min total)
CPU 98°C (18k FFT in Prime95)
Case 54°C

Prime95 + Furmark Load (after 34 min / 1h26 min total)
CPU 99°C (18k FFT in Prime95)
Case 54,8°C

CPU started throtling, so I closed Furmark
Continued with Prime95 alone (heavy FFT 18K still in progress)

Prime95 Load (after 4 min / 1h30 min total)
CPU 90°C (18k FFT in Prime95)
Case 52,7°C

Prime95 Load (after 6 min / 1h32 min total)
CPU 89°C (18k FFT in Prime95 is done, less stressful 672K is starting, temps drop immediatly)
Case 52°C

Prime95 Load (after 19 min / 1h45 min total)
CPU 84°C
Case 48,8°C

Prime95 Load (after 41 min / 2h07 min total)
CPU 82°C
Case 47,7°C

stopped Prime95

Idle (after 4 min / 2h11 min total)
CPU 50°C
Case 43,1°C

[mattchapman]

Where can I buy an FC8 in the US? I don't see them at Perfect Home Theater.
thanks!

[passingbat]

I'm not sure if anyone can help me with a query on this. I'm thinking of buying a pre built version of this for my bedroom. Because I'm disabled and can't get to the computer to switch it off and back on again if it locks up or crashes, I need to be able to do it remotely.

Will the Streacom remote control still turn the PC off and on again if the computer locks up/crashes, or will a lockup prevent it from responding to the remote?

Another option maybe would be to not have the remote included and set the PC in the bios to boot up on return of AC power; I can plug the PC into a remote controlled mains socket (I use this method on an old computer). But does the Streacom Pico power supply act like a 'normal' PC power supply, so that it would allow me to do this?

Would I be able to have both options, i.e., the remote control and the option of booting AC power return? Would the remote control circuitry prevent the boot from AC power return working?

Sorry to ask questions on functionality that hardly anyone else would need, but it's important functionality to me and I'd like to know before I buy.

Thanks for any help.

[Mastakilla]

response from Streacom (seems like all is ok)

-----Original Message-----
Subject: Normal behaviour of the Streacom FC8 Evo case? (Technical Support)

Sorry for the delay in replying, our team took a break over the new year.

The typical differential between the CPU and side panel is approx 35C

Streacom Support Team

-----Original Message-----
Subject: Normal behaviour of the Streacom FC8 Evo case? (Technical Support)

Hi,

Thanks for the explanation.

However, there is one question that still remains unanswered:

As you say, I do know a little of what I'm doing.
However, that does not mean I don't make mistakes.
Also, this is my first passive case.

As such, I still would like an answer to the question if my reported temperatures indicate a good / medium / bad assembly.
I'm sure you must have done similar testing, measuring both case and cpu temperatures, and that the temperature readings that I provided can tell you how well it is done (especially the max case temp and the temp difference between cpu and case should be very helpful).
I don't mind being told that I did a bad job

Thanks in advance,

-----Original Message-----
Subject: Normal behaviour of the Streacom FC8 Evo case? (Technical Support)

Hello ,

We tested FC8 Evo with a room temperature of 22C with several CPUs with up to 95W TDP resulting in temperatures less than 90C under typical and worst case scenarios. Intel switched to using thermal paste instead of lead between the IHS and the CPU core, which is why a lot of people are having worse temps after upgrading to Haswell. It's important to note that the kind of load you get by running Prime and Furmark are greater than the typical scenario for a HTPC. Our cases have been designed and are geared towards typical home and business use and not intended for performance and intensive applications such as gaming. We generally recommend the use of 65W for typical use as this gives room for all the variables such as room temperature, location, airflow, assembly (application of thermal paste), but we do also have a number of system integrators that regularly use 95W for specific application as they have greater control over the variables.

To put things in perspective, we sometimes get customers who are using a 45W complain to us about overheating and no matter what troubleshooting we go trough, the end solution is that they assume the case is overrated and request a return. Without actually testing their exact hardware, it is impossible for us to know why they experienced such an issue, but the fact remains that the FC8 can handle 95W and at the very least 65W without question, yet their 45W system runs too hot.

From the great detail you have provided, its clear that you know what your doing and we would not question your assembly ability, but motherboard thermal sensors have been known to be out by several degrees, and environmental variables play a big part in passive cooling. That combined with Haswell's lower thermal performance, might be the reason you are seeing these high temps.

Streacom Support Team

[ManicD]

Then, following the instructions from Streacom I go to fit the Nano PSU. Mistake....there isn't enough clearance between the 24-pin PSU connector and the lower heatpipes for the NanoPSU to slide in before being pressed down. So, undo things and refit the Nano PSU as shown in the case instructions.

Now, the NanoPSU doesn't come with any instructions. So, only after refitting the heatpipes do I notice that little 5-pin socket that the SATA and 4-pin ATX cables need to plug into first. Again, start removing the heatpipe block and squeezing in. Trying to grip the NanoPSU to remove it isn't easy is it is so small, there really isn't much to hold onto and holding by the edges isn't possible because of the space it's crammed into.

Unfortunately, in this process I have broken off the 2 capacitors from one side of the NanoPSU... So, instead of spending the evening setting up XBMC I am waiting for a new NanoPSU to turn up on Tuesday. I am £88 worse off that I had planned and very frustrated. I have never broken anything building a computer and still have to have to finish this one.

Love the form factor of the FC8 Evo, but there are some basic practicalities that is really hasn't got quite right. I am also extremely irritated by the lack of a user guide with the NanoPSU. There isn't one online either. Had I been able to follow this simply step by step then I wouldn't have made such a basic error. Disappointing.

Just a note, this is not Steacoms fault, they provide a fantastic guide http://www.streacom.com/system-build-guide/ with all the dimensions of their boards listed, as every board has sockets in different places they cant say where the PSU will plug in, I had to buy a different board to fit the case i wanted but all the info is here, far better than any other manufacturer i have seem.

ANYONE buying a STREACOM case MUST check out the guide here: http://www.streacom.com/system-build-guide/